(no subject)

I knew that beach was dangerous. When I was at the beach yesterday the waves were incredible. I was getting tossed about in them like a rag doll. A couple of times I launched into a wave to body surf and the waves tossed me around and had me doing cartwheels. Another time I rode a wave and it dragged me along the bottom. An even worse experience when you are nude! It was so hot yesterday that I needed to get in the water at least every 15 minutes to cool off. One time when I was walking in the water and only up to my calves a wave came in with such force it knocked me right off my feet and flipped me a full 180 onto my head! With such strong waves I could also feel strong rips, or under tows. I nearly got caught in one when I dove in a wave and then found I was out of my depth and the rip was starting to pull me out. It was only that I rode another in coming wave while swimming that I managed to get back in. I just read that someone else wasn't as lucky and they got washed out on a rip and only 60meters off shore he drowned.

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